Having been to Indonesia a few times now and having been to
many of the popular (and not so popular) destinations I get many questions from
aspiring travellers for tips and recommendations when it comes to visiting Bali
and the Gilis. A comprehensive travel guide book is still probably your best friend when planning your trip; the truth is that there is so much to see and so that it is
impossible for me to answer everything in 5 quick minutes in a passing
conversation, and thus I have tried to give MY (can’t stress this word enough) best tips when it comes to accommodation,
locations, eating, drinking, prices, shopping, and travelling.
Bali can be intimidating at first. I remember how
uncomfortable I felt when I first arrived (I stayed in Legian beach, located between Kuta and Seminyak), walking up and down the extremely
hectic and sometimes labyrinth like streets, being harassed by the local
shopkeepers and taxi drivers shouting “look in my shop, what you want, what you
want” and “transport, transport” honking as they drove next to me. It can all
be a bit overwhelming when you don’t have a clear destination in mind nor know
where to go. Seminyak is a little calmer in this respect which is why I prefer
it to Kuta and Legian. But those thoughts soon disappeared and Bali really got under my skin, in the good way. So much so that I can't stop going back; the smells of the incense in the air throughout the day, the wonderfully friendly people, and most importantly the incredibly tasty cuisine.
Airport
Denpasar: Airlines will likely lose your luggage (especially
if you had a layover in Jakarta) but airport staff are extremely efficient in
delivering to your hotel, and hotel staff are usually very helpful in
facilitating this by checking in with the airport staff on the ETA of your
clean undies.
Taxi
From the airport go to the official taxi rank where prices
are displayed up-front. The shady loclas who offer their services at arrivals tend
to charge at least double.
To Kuta: IDR 60,000-80,000
To Seminyak: IDR 80,000-100,000
Elsewhere: no clue, but like I said official taxi ranks are the most honest. Never hurts to ask the “unofficial” drivers or private transfer services for quotes, of course. This is especially true during low season when the latter options adjust their prices.
Kuta
In my opinion Kuta should be avoided at all costs. Picture
Las Vegas meets Oxford Street in a developing country. It’s party heaven for 18
year old Australian surfers looking to have a “good time” but for me it’s honestly
too many bright lights, too many drunken tourists, too many people, too much
noise. Shopping also isn’t great unless you’re after the
same-same-but-different tourist crap they sell in every country in SEA.
Seminyak
I’d live here if I could. Let me start with my favourite
topic:
- Shopping
You wouldn't expect it if you have never been to Bali before, but shopping here
is better than probably anywhere I've seen before. Mostly hand-sewn and
sometimes one-of-a-kind pieces of beautiful clothing. The fabrics
range from cotton to the finest silk and softest leather you've ever put your
hand on. I met two French women who said they come to shop in Bali for the couture
as it’s of such fine quality it’s on par with what they find in Paris for a
fraction of the price. One of them had just picked up a little black silk dress
with sewn on sequence for under $250 – that’s less than you’d pay for a high
street cocktail dress in any of the shops in London. So whe I say it’s
inexpensive, don’t expect to pick up a silk dress for $10 but the price-quality
for the couture is truly remarkable.
Look for shops on Jalan Oberoi and Jalan Raya Seminyak
- Accommodation
Backpackers:
Kayun: Jalan Patih Jelantik, Kuta, Badung, Bali 80361 (LEGIAN)10 people dorms, girls and boys separate. Have a nice pool! Clean and affordable
Entrance through pharmacy (literally) next to Mario’s silver. Main entrance is through back streets. They also have private double rooms for approx. IDR 250,000: cheaper than 2 beds in a dorm. No pool. They have a common room with leather sofas, tv, dvd, computers. Clean and affordable. 3-6 people mixed dorms.
Located in the Petitenget area you’re in the middle of luxury right here. Potato Head Beach Club is just down the road and lots of lovely restaurants and hotels are along this street and general area. Like with the other hostels, it’s clean and affordable. 10 people dorms mostly.
Upmarket
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| Bali Reski Asih Hotel |
It’s a boutique hotel, IDR 600,000 per night. Staff are
incredibly helpful and in Seminyak in my opinion it’s the best value for money.
They have a nice pool and a gorgeous garden; the rooms are fresh, clean, and
decent sized. It’s on a small side street without much traffic and only a 5 minute
walk away from Ku De Ta. Potato Head is a IDR 30,000 taxi ride away. The also
organize free transport to Jimbaran, best seafood in Bali (a 1-1.5 hour ride).
http://www.balireskiasih.com/
http://www.balireskiasih.com/
- Eating
Gotta be my favourite topic. Imagine the nicest restaurant you’ve been to in, say, London. Now instead of paying £150 like you would in London imagine paying $30 for the same meal. That sums up the eating experience in Seminyak. That, and the fact that it’s 28 degrees and you have a light breeze on you face and a fabulous cocktail in your hand.
For a posh meal head to Chandi (officially address is 72 Jalan
Laksmana (Kayu Aya) but everyone knows the street as Jalan Oberoi). Half way up
from Seminyak square. Not only is their food top notch, but their cocktails are
also some of the best I’ve had. http://www.chandibali.com/
For a slightly less celebrity-meets-porn-star dining experience
go to pretty much any restaurant in Seminyak. The food is likely to impress you
either way. Art Café is right next to Reski Asih and for IDR 60,000 you get the
catch of the day prepared to perfection. Townhouse (also on Jalan Oberoi) do
extremely good “upmarket” Western and Balinese/Indonesian food and they have a
nightclub and a roof terrace for sundowners too. You’re again looking at a cost
of less than $10 for your meal.
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| Warung Murah meal: $3 |
For the authentic experience go to Jalan Double Six, to a
warung (Indonesian for restaurant) called Warung Murah. It’s popular amongst
tourists and locals alike, and you’ll walk out with your stomach full for less
than IDR 50,000, guaranteed.
At the bottom of Jalan Double Six, by the beach, take a
right and walk along the beach to find about 10 beach bars with beanbag
chairs laid out in front, and live music from sundown until about 10-11pm. Also
generally very good food and price-quality; and guaranteed to give you that
true holiday feel, sipping on your pina colada listening to a Bruno Mars cover,
watching the sunset, feet in the sand, soft gentle breeze in your hair.
- Drinking/ Nightlife – my favourite topic
Mantra Bar
Let’s start off with saying if it’s live music you’re into, then you won’t run out of options. Jalan Oberoi has at least 5-6 places with live entertainment each night and Mantra Bar (Jalan Petitenget 77x) is a good place for someone looking for a lively venue usually hosting a crowd between 25 and 45 years of age. Sit by the bar and you’ll quickly make new friends whilst enjoying the music. Ah! My favourite place!
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| Red Carpet Champagne Bar |
The Red Carpet Champagne Bar (also on Jalan Laksmana/Jalan Oberoi, a little further up from Chandi) has to be my favourite place. It’s probably the most fun and most ridiculous bar in Seminyak! 80s music videos playing on the TV screens, waiters and waitresses dressed in the most fancy dress like uniforms I’ve ever seen, and over 100 champagnes to choose from. The crowd tends to be a bit on the older side but never stopped me from “relighting my fire” in this fabulous bar!
The W (Woo bar)
Get in on the pornstar life style! I mean, need I say more than it’s the W? The driveway entrance in itself is impressive enough. Blend in with the rich and famous and enjoy a cocktail for less than what you would pay in London at any cocktail lounge. On Jalan Petitenget.
Get in on the pornstar life style! I mean, need I say more than it’s the W? The driveway entrance in itself is impressive enough. Blend in with the rich and famous and enjoy a cocktail for less than what you would pay in London at any cocktail lounge. On Jalan Petitenget.
Hu’u Bar
My absolute favourite place. It’s a nightclub like no other in Seminyak – Not to be confused with Woo bar, the W Hotel’s cocktail bar! On the same street, Jalan Petitenget, this is a proper nightclub which gets busy around midnight. Don’t worry, no need to wait that long as they have a garden restaurant/lounge with a swimming pool, and it’s open all day! Not a cheap place, I’d bring a million or two IDRs for a proper night out, as a glass of Prosecco will set you back IDR 150.000. But the place will rock your socks off with very good Djs
My absolute favourite place. It’s a nightclub like no other in Seminyak – Not to be confused with Woo bar, the W Hotel’s cocktail bar! On the same street, Jalan Petitenget, this is a proper nightclub which gets busy around midnight. Don’t worry, no need to wait that long as they have a garden restaurant/lounge with a swimming pool, and it’s open all day! Not a cheap place, I’d bring a million or two IDRs for a proper night out, as a glass of Prosecco will set you back IDR 150.000. But the place will rock your socks off with very good Djs
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| Ku De Ta |
Ku De Ta
Can’t go to Bali without doing sundowners at Ku De Ta. Right
on the beach, enjoy famous DJs ease you into the night with soft tunes lounging
on the beds sipping that Whiskey Sour.
Townhouse
As I mentioned before Townhouse is great for eating, but it is also a fabulous place (and not too pricy) to enjoy sundowners on the rooftop terrace. There are lounge chairs and sofas, and usually a DJ playing loungey (Ku De Ta style) tunes. At midnight the nightclub opens its doors for those looking for hit the dancefloor.
Townhouse
As I mentioned before Townhouse is great for eating, but it is also a fabulous place (and not too pricy) to enjoy sundowners on the rooftop terrace. There are lounge chairs and sofas, and usually a DJ playing loungey (Ku De Ta style) tunes. At midnight the nightclub opens its doors for those looking for hit the dancefloor.
Potato Head
Hands down my absolute favourite thing about Bali – and my guilty pleasure! On
Jalan Petitenget lies the gem of Seminyak. Get there early – at 11 am
preferably when it opens – to guarantee a bed by the pool. Minimum consumption
is a mere IDR 500.000 (less than USD50!) per bed. Work your way through the
famous cocktail list and make sure you don’t miss Kookaburra – the best cocktail
on the whole damn list. Kick back and enjoy the people watching. Swim up and
make new friends in the pool bar – never a dull moment at Potato Head Beach
Club. It turns into a Ku De Ta like loungy night club after sundowners.
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| Potato Head |
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| Potato Head |
- Getting around
If you are an experienced driver and/or have a great sense of adventure and/or are fearless, then rent a motorbike. The traffic in Kuta (and sometimes in Seminyak too) is HORRIBLE and you'll cough your lungs out in the exhaust fumes but irrefutably it is the best, easiest, and quickest way to get around. Plus you can park anywhere.
A lot is walking distances though, and obviously this gives
the opportunity to look into the shops hehehe.
Is the biggest of the 3 islands and known as the party island. For me, it’s too
busy with the wrong people. So the same people who like to party it up in Kuta
come to Gili T to do the same. Having said that, there are some very nice
villas that can be rented on the more quiet side of the island.
It's no secret I think it's pure paradise. It has a more authentic island feel to it, with the bamboo structures and the elementary seafood barbecues on the beach. After a few days here you couldn't possibly be more relaxed! There is not much else to do but to read, chill, get massages, go for walks, and snorkel. The island is pretty much asleep by 9pm. During high season there are weekly all night parties (Zipp, Legend, Paradiso bars amongst others hosting them) but during low season the parties are usually limited to monthly ones.
During low season I wouldn’t book in advance just because
you’ll end up paying high season prices. By going there without having booked a
room you’ll be able to negotiate your price for the room, even at the nicer
places. Having said that, during high season I also wouldn’t book in advance
because the budget places where I like to stay don’t take advance bookings and
even the nicer places have negotiable prices. For a very budget place go to Nina
Cottages. Imagine the most basic room you can; honestly, a bed, a “shower”
(read: garden hose), a toilet, and a fan…and now imagine it’s all old and run
down; paint falling off the walls etc. That’s Nina. BUT: it’s clean and it will
set you back IDR 100/200 K (low/high season) per night. The location is great.
From the harbour go right past Zipp Bar, and take a left inland at Chillout bar
and Sunrise Hotel. Nina Cottages will be to your right up the little alleyway.
Zipp Bar Bunglaows are excellent, especially during low season
as you can get the prices down probably to IDR 500,000-600,000. High season you’re
looking at 700,000/ night. Really very nice bungalows, and location is
excellent.
I got attacked by bedbugs in Gita Gili in July 2014 so depending on how long it’ll take them to get rid of them I probably wouldn’t risk staying there.
Really recommend climbing Mount Rinjani; it’s a fantastic experience! You can book anywhere, and decide if you want to go to the rim (2 days 1 night) or all the way to the summit (3 days, 2 nights). To the rim doesn’t require an exceptional level of fitness or any special equipment, it’s quite easy in that sense. But going all the way to the top I’d recommend some mountain trekking experience. For the 2 days, I night cost expect to pay IDR 1-1.5m depending on the organiser. Make sure to book with a reputable one, Trip Advisor is good for this.
The Gili Islands
An absolute must if you’re travelling to Indonesia. Gili Air (my favourite
place!) for me was like that fantasy place I only thought could exist in
movies. The water around the islands is as clear as that in a pool, there is a constant warm breeze
from the sea, and nothing beats swimming with turtles…! There’s no motorised traffic on any of the
three Gilis so you can walk, cycle, or get a horse and carriage.
Gili Trawangan
Gili Air
- Accommodation
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| Very basic rooms, Nina Cottages and inland village |
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| Zipp Bar Bungalows |
I got attacked by bedbugs in Gita Gili in July 2014 so depending on how long it’ll take them to get rid of them I probably wouldn’t risk staying there.
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| Villa Karang |
For even more luxury stay at Villa Karang, 2 minutes left
from the harbour. The double deluxe room will set you back about IDR 900K.
For the super budget traveler head into the village – but make
sure you have a flashlight as the streets are very dark after sunset and it’s
easy to get lost at night!!
The “main strip” refers to the bit comprising Paradiso Bar,
Caballito, Scallywags (best & most upmarket restaurant on the island), Zipp
Bar (very good value for money food and drink wise, and most happening at night)
and a bit further up. The other side of the island is much quieter but also has
plenty of good restaurants etc. Anywhere and everywhere is good for food and
drink.
- Snorkelling
Best to do it very early in the morning if you want to spot
a turtle or two. In front of Paradiso Bar is where I saw most turtles. They
come in to feed so 9am ish is a good time because at 11 boats from Trawangan
start coming in for snorkelling and scare the turtles away. Snorkelling trips
are also organised for IDR 100.000 and they’ll take you around the 3 islands to
the best spots.
Gili Meno
Haven’t been
- Tickets from Bali to the Gilis
Ah, the tricky part of getting to the Gilis. It’s very easy
to end up overpaying so my advice is to ask in many places, the more the
better. Ask at your hotel, and several other travel agents to get the best
price. There are several different operators and you can buy the tickets from anywhere, Ubud, Seminyak, Lovina…and it
includes a pick up from your hotel, transfer by bus to Padang Bai, fast boat to
Gili Air/Trawangan (for Meno you get off at trawangan and get the local boat to
Meno); and the same the other way. You can even book from Seminyak and have
your return ticket to Ubud, for instance. If you buy a ticket from Padang Bai
only for the fast boat you’re looking at about IDR 400-500K return and from
Seminyak/Kuta/Ubud etc IDR 600-700K max. These are high season prices. If you
don’t know ytour return date, get open return and 24-48 hours before return
confirm at ticket office on the island you’re at.
Alternatively you can take the slow boat/ferry to Lombok and then the local boat from Lombok to the Gilis but....ppffff....I did it once and I don't think I'll be doing it again. Too slow, too much hassle...it doesn't even end up saving you that much money so I don't think it is worth it.
Alternatively you can take the slow boat/ferry to Lombok and then the local boat from Lombok to the Gilis but....ppffff....I did it once and I don't think I'll be doing it again. Too slow, too much hassle...it doesn't even end up saving you that much money so I don't think it is worth it.
Rinjani Trek
Really recommend climbing Mount Rinjani; it’s a fantastic experience! You can book anywhere, and decide if you want to go to the rim (2 days 1 night) or all the way to the summit (3 days, 2 nights). To the rim doesn’t require an exceptional level of fitness or any special equipment, it’s quite easy in that sense. But going all the way to the top I’d recommend some mountain trekking experience. For the 2 days, I night cost expect to pay IDR 1-1.5m depending on the organiser. Make sure to book with a reputable one, Trip Advisor is good for this.
Amed
What a great little discovery on my last trip!! A little coastal retro fishing village on the north-eastern coast of Bali, with black sand beaches. The town is just too cute for words and the best value for money after Ubud I’d say. Fresh seafood on the beach for IDR 30,000, fresh fruit juices for IDR 10,000 and fabulous beach side bungalows.
- Acommodation
I stayed at Joli Homestay for IDR 150,000/night and it was
like a 3 star hotel, stunning garden and very good, clean room. It’s not right
on the beach (you have to cross the road and walk 2 mins). Really great and
quiet place. You need to haggle prices for accommodation though; the guy
originally asked me for IDR 300K. The beachside bungalows are stunning but some
come with a price tag of IDR 1m. There’s plenty of bungalow-type accommodation
for under IDR 400K/Night with luxuries like swimming pool etc.
Joli Homestay pics:
Joli Homestay pics:
- Getting around
Amed is very
spread out along the coast. I recommend staying in the vicinity of Sama-Sama
bungalows as on many nights there’s good live music in the reggae bar. I also
recommend getting a scooter to move around. Traffic in Amed is really not bad,
so even for first time drivers. Having a scooter also allows you to explore the
area, drive to Tulamben to see (snorkel or dive) the famous shipwreck. There
are fantastic spas at hotels if you drive up the mountain along the coast.
Getting spa treatments in the outdoor treatment rooms overlooking the cliffs
and the sea is a great experience. The one I recommend is Ocean SPA Aquaterrace (Selang Amed, address: Selang Bunutan Amed Karangasemv BALI, Phone +62-81-3379-11096).
The rice paddies around Tirtta Gangga are truly stunning too, whether it is for hiking purposes or driving around with your scooter :)
The homestays scattered all over Ubud (including the main streets) are a great experience too. They’re really good value for money as everything around this area, and it gfives you an authentic experience of what it’s like to stay with a Balinese family. You’ll have your own little bungalow and usually there’s a nice garden and even swimming pool if you’re lucky! Usually little domestic animals like cats, gogs, bunnies, and birds roaming free in the garden!
Cooking class: I used Lobong cooking class and it was a fabulous half day experience which started with going to the local market and learning about different foods and traditions. The highlight was the place itself where the class took place as the kitchen is open air, in the garden of the family compound. On Trip Advisor there are lots of cooking schools listed where you can choose from. http://lobongcooking.com/
The rice paddies around Tirtta Gangga are truly stunning too, whether it is for hiking purposes or driving around with your scooter :)
Ubud
Is like an explosion of culture, this little town is the
perfect place for relaxation. It is so small many people go there with the
intention of staying for 2 days thinking it will be enough to explore its
wonders but end up being charmed into spending a week or longer, unable to
leave the delightful village. Personally I think 3 days in Ubud is enough to
see and do the main things, and that includes relaxing by the pool, getting
massages, early nights, fantastic food, and an outdoorsy activity or two. I
think what you get hooked on in Ubud the food which is probably the best in
Bali, and the nice people who make you feel like you belong there! The hotels
in the Ubud area are the best value for money I’ve ever come across.
- Accommodation
A place that comes highly recommended but I’ve never stayed
there myself is Beji Ubud Resort, apparently a little piece of heaven on earth.
Once I stayed at Rijasa Agung, and this is probably the best
hotel I’ve ever stayed at. Your own hot tub on the balcony, infinity pool
overlooking the mountains and luscious valley, peace and quietness…what more do
you want? The food is not good, I’ll give you that, but the hotel in itself is
just spectacular. Another potential
drawback is that it is a good 15 min drive from Ubud but you do get free
transportation from the hotel and back.
Pictures from Rijasa Agung:
Pictures from Rijasa Agung:
The homestays scattered all over Ubud (including the main streets) are a great experience too. They’re really good value for money as everything around this area, and it gfives you an authentic experience of what it’s like to stay with a Balinese family. You’ll have your own little bungalow and usually there’s a nice garden and even swimming pool if you’re lucky! Usually little domestic animals like cats, gogs, bunnies, and birds roaming free in the garden!
- Activities
Cooking class: I used Lobong cooking class and it was a fabulous half day experience which started with going to the local market and learning about different foods and traditions. The highlight was the place itself where the class took place as the kitchen is open air, in the garden of the family compound. On Trip Advisor there are lots of cooking schools listed where you can choose from. http://lobongcooking.com/
Cycling tour around
the rice paddies. Ubud is known for the stunning surroundings, the luscious
forests and fluorescent green rice paddies. Taking a half day cycling tour
gives you the chance to get some fresh air and see it all first hand, cycling
through many local villages and take beautiful pictures.
Ask local travel agents for more fun activities in and
around Ubud, there are lots! Like trekking to mount Agung for the sunrise and
having your breakkie eggs fried on the rocks of an active volcano.
