I should have done my research better. Getting to my overpriced hotel (the same one from last time, Phoenix Hotel) in Angeles city from Manila airport was a little confusing since I had no idea where I was meant to go, or how.
I arrived at the domestic terminal and asked where I could get the bus to Angeles city/ Clark airport (I just wanted to get anywhere close-ish to the hotel) and was told I had to take a taxi to the bus station whereas I'm sure I read somewhere that there was a bus from the airport in Manila to Clark airport. Perhaps it was from the international terminal? Anyway, I got a taxi to the bus station - obviously not knowing if it was the right station or not - and was dropped in the middle of Philippine mayhem it seemed like. People running and shouting, reeking smoke coming out of food stalls selling things that smelled...questionable. I walked up to what looked like the ticket counter that had three lines with (what I presume were) destination names written on top of each service window. I joined the queue with the most people in it - seems like that's normally the one I need to be standing in - and waited. I didn't quite get to the front of the line when a man asked me where I was going and I explained it was Angeles city I wanted to go to but Clark airport would do too, and he said that there were no buses to either from that station! What I had to do was to get a bus to....ehhhh....a place that begins with the letter D and then a tricycle to Angeles and that the bus was leaving NOW and that I had to follow him NOW and that he'd sort out my ticket on the bus.
What had just happened?!
Somehow I had gone from standing in a line to a ticket office selling tickets to a place I don't know, to sitting on a bus headed to a destination which wasn't where I actually wanted to go.
Yeah ok.
I'm not going to lie I was a little worried but there's just something about the rocking motion of a bus and my ever-so-comfortable pink IKEA neck pillow I soon forgot about everything and fell asleep. I mean I had 28 hours on me before my flight to BKK, surely if I went the wrong way I'd have time to figure it all out later. And as it turns out all was OK of course - the mystery man who pulled me out from the ticket line woke me up to let me know we had arrived at this place beginning with a D, and that it was time for me to get off the bus. Off I got and jumped into the tricycle and 20 minutes later arrived at my overpriced hotel. Ta-daa!
Just like last time, I was the only white woman there. All other guests fell into one of two categories:
1) European / American fat bald men aged 50-70
2) Filipino girls aged 20-30
TV in my room it is then....
And that concluded my trip to Pilipinas. This time.
Saturday, 19 January 2013
Same Same But Better
 |
| Honda Bay, Palawan |
 |
| Honda Bay, Palawan |
The lifestyle, the scenery, the state of mind.
There's no doubt in my mind I'll be going back to the Philippines, if not on this trip then on the next. But one thing is for sure, I'm not done with the country of the perfect beaches. Hell, I barely got started! What choice do I have but to return to do all the fun activities I missed out on because of my stupid stomach bug (which incidentally was cured with the second set of antibiotics I was given after they analysed all my bodily fluids)?
 |
| Nagtabon Beach |
Like being a kid again and discovering a magical place no one else knows about.
Banwa Art House Banwa deserves to be mentioned separately. It is the best hostel I have stayed at so far - the staff know your name, it's clean, the food is fresh every day, and other guests are fun. It is THE place to stay in Puerto Princesa (for $8 a night). Did I mention the view?
The disappointment of the Underground River
I couldn't possibly write about Puerto Princesa without mentioning the underground river, one of the NEW seven wonders of nature (along with Halong Bay in Vietnam which was, funnily enough, not that special in my eyes either...) as voted by people through a global poll in 2011.
 |
| At the Underground River, Palawan |
What was it like? Well, it's a cave. If you like caves, you'll probably like it.
I should maybe add I was very hungover that day - I went out with some of the boys from the hostel the night before so perhaps this detail clouded my opinion a bit. But still - it's a cave.
I have a huge bump on one side of my head from sleeping whilst leaning against the window on the bus coming back from the cave. That's how tired I was, actually capable of falling asleep whilst my head was banging against the glass with a F1 wannabe driver taking on those mountain road curves on a bumpy dirt track at a hundred miles an hour. I only woke up a couple of times when my head banged really really hard.
 |
| Posers |
 |
| Smiles |
Whilst some things are same same...but different, other things are just better.
Thursday, 17 January 2013
El Nido - The Place I Didn't Go Riding, Diving, or Island Hopping
Some things are like Goldilocks's porridge - just right. For me, it was El Nido. Although NOTHING went to plan, the town of El Nido was hands up one of the most amazing places ever. Not only did I almost run out of money in El Nido but none of the activities I had planned - horse riding, diving, and island hopping - happened.
Electricity
El Nido is a remote town and electricity is scarce. In fact, it is cut off between 6am and 2pm; and comes and goes throughout the rest of the time. At night when there was a power cut I loved walking around looking at the candlelit town. Some places like bars and restaurants (although not all of them) had generators but all the shops and most hostels and houses relied on candles when the lights were out. Even people on the street walked around holding candles rather than flash lights. How could you not fall in love with El Nido?
The Philippines is a country I will most certainly be returning to only with a bit more money. It was more expensive than any of the other places I've been to so far; although partly it is because the cheaper backpackers' accommodations get booked up weeks if not months in advance in the popular destinations. I thought I was early when I went to book my hostels a week in advance but as it turns out I was way late and failed to find a backpackers dorm on the net (also some of the dorms aren't listed on the net) in El Nido so had to book a double room at a "hotel" that had very bad reviews, Blessed Inn, for $18 a night. That is a high price when you have no one to share it with. Other people I met told me they took a risk and went without having booked anything knowing many places can't be booked online, but they walked around for hours before finding a place so I am definitely glad I had my room - even though it was probably smaller, dirtier, and noisier than any of the backpackers' I've stayed at for half the price!
Food is also more expensive. I spent on average $25 a day which broke the bank a bit, but damn it was good! I had fresh seafood in every shape and form almost every day. What also broke the bank was an ATM that told me my transaction couldn't be processed but still showed -£127.50 on my bank statement. I really hope my dispute with Barclays is successful and I get my money back!
Horse riding - or the not horse riding
I had seen a poster advertising horse riding on the beach at the Four Seasons hotel so I thought to myself "Hell. Yes." I asked a travel agent to call the hotel and organise it for me, explaining I was an experienced rider and all that. The next day I could barely keep my breakfast down I was so excited. I could already imagine galloping on the beach through the waves! The hotel was a little bit outside the town so I took a tricycle to get there. I was all prepared, had even thought through the outfit choice so it would be most comfortable to ride; combat trousers rather than shorts, trainers instead of flip flops... I was sure it was going to be just spectacular - if the Four Seasns are offering it, it had got to be good!
Well, not quite.
I never did get to gallop in the breaking waves. I never did get to feel the wind in my hair. I didn't even get to sit on the horse. Here's why. The poor horse looked like it hadn't had a straw of hey to eat in weeks. His fur was dull, his ribs were sticking out, and he was just staring into space with the most apathetic look on his face as to say "just shoot me now." The poor thing looked like it would fall over if I poked at him, LET ALONE get on him!!! I felt so sorry for him I couldn't even bring myself to take a picture...
I didn't really know what to do next. I was out of town, it was 10am, and I didn't have a plan.
A plan emerged as if by itself. I suddenly realised I was sitting at the Four Seasons, next to a swimming pool and a cocktail menu!
I should probably explain that this "Four Seasons" hotel was a knock off version of THE Four Seasons chain. Still a nice hotel and swimming pool, bonus! But probably explains certain things, like the horses looking like knock offs of real ones.
OK, so I didn't get to go riding but I got to work on my tan by the pool and go for long walks on the beach. I ain't complainin' :)
Cash flow problem
There is a rumour that there is an ATM at the gas station in El Nido but I never went to see if it was true or not - I also heard it charges 6% commission and is not the most reliable machine. Seeing I still had my last ATM problem to deal with I wasn't about to add to that list. So a few days into my trip to El Nido and after paying for my diving and island hopping tours with the money I had withdrawn in Puerto Princesa I suddenly realised I was running very low on cash in a town where a meal will normally cost you about $10 or more, and on a normal day including breakfast, lunch, dinner, and coffees during the day and beers in the evening I would normally have spent $25-30. I realised I basically had to survive three days on $25 which wouldn't have been a problem anywhere but here. It meant not having dinner but rather buying fruit or bread and eating it in my hotel room. It meant drinking my water I had bought at the shop whilst others were drinking beers and cocktails at the bar.
I know, poor me, huh? Anyone reading this who has actually done the backpacking on a budget thing is probably laughing out loud. What I am basically saying is I had to live the real backpackers life for a change rather than overindulging on barbecued seafood and drinking cocktails all day long.
The not diving and not island hopping
I had booked to go diving and island hopping, two activities El Nido is renown for. Apparently the coral reefs and marine life are meant to be stunning, some of the best diving spots in the world are meant to be in the Philippines, so of course I had to try it! The same goes for island hopping (going from island to island exploring the white sand paradise beaches, snorkelling, sunbathing, barbecue on the beach...that kind of thing). However, the universe had different plans. The night before the day I had booked for diving a typhoon hit us. It sounds scarier than it is but it meant torrential rains and winds that would blow your hat off; and on the sea it meant dangerous waves. The coastguard forbid any and all boats from leaving the beach which consequently meant my diving was cancelled. No harm done I thought, time to chill, read my book (Superfreakonomics, flippin' funny by the way), write my blog, socialise with new people and reschedule diving for the next day and move island hopping to the day after!
Unfortunately the universe had other plans for me again. The stomach problem I was still on medication for suddenly resurfaced despite the antibiotics and I spent the next sleepless night in agony - luckily though in the privacy of my own hotel room rather than in a shared dorm. I realised this was a problem I needed to deal with properly and knew by then it wouldn't go away on its own so first thing in the morning I went and cancelled my diving and island hopping and got on a bus back to Puerto Princesa.
That concluded my stay in El Nido. This time. I think it's safe to say I will be returning, and it will be sooner rather than later....
 |
| El Nido, Palawan |
Electricity
El Nido is a remote town and electricity is scarce. In fact, it is cut off between 6am and 2pm; and comes and goes throughout the rest of the time. At night when there was a power cut I loved walking around looking at the candlelit town. Some places like bars and restaurants (although not all of them) had generators but all the shops and most hostels and houses relied on candles when the lights were out. Even people on the street walked around holding candles rather than flash lights. How could you not fall in love with El Nido?
 |
| Mine! Las Cabanas Beach, Palawan |
Food is also more expensive. I spent on average $25 a day which broke the bank a bit, but damn it was good! I had fresh seafood in every shape and form almost every day. What also broke the bank was an ATM that told me my transaction couldn't be processed but still showed -£127.50 on my bank statement. I really hope my dispute with Barclays is successful and I get my money back!
Horse riding - or the not horse riding
I had seen a poster advertising horse riding on the beach at the Four Seasons hotel so I thought to myself "Hell. Yes." I asked a travel agent to call the hotel and organise it for me, explaining I was an experienced rider and all that. The next day I could barely keep my breakfast down I was so excited. I could already imagine galloping on the beach through the waves! The hotel was a little bit outside the town so I took a tricycle to get there. I was all prepared, had even thought through the outfit choice so it would be most comfortable to ride; combat trousers rather than shorts, trainers instead of flip flops... I was sure it was going to be just spectacular - if the Four Seasns are offering it, it had got to be good!
Well, not quite.
I never did get to gallop in the breaking waves. I never did get to feel the wind in my hair. I didn't even get to sit on the horse. Here's why. The poor horse looked like it hadn't had a straw of hey to eat in weeks. His fur was dull, his ribs were sticking out, and he was just staring into space with the most apathetic look on his face as to say "just shoot me now." The poor thing looked like it would fall over if I poked at him, LET ALONE get on him!!! I felt so sorry for him I couldn't even bring myself to take a picture...
I didn't really know what to do next. I was out of town, it was 10am, and I didn't have a plan.
A plan emerged as if by itself. I suddenly realised I was sitting at the Four Seasons, next to a swimming pool and a cocktail menu!
I should probably explain that this "Four Seasons" hotel was a knock off version of THE Four Seasons chain. Still a nice hotel and swimming pool, bonus! But probably explains certain things, like the horses looking like knock offs of real ones.
OK, so I didn't get to go riding but I got to work on my tan by the pool and go for long walks on the beach. I ain't complainin' :)
Cash flow problem
There is a rumour that there is an ATM at the gas station in El Nido but I never went to see if it was true or not - I also heard it charges 6% commission and is not the most reliable machine. Seeing I still had my last ATM problem to deal with I wasn't about to add to that list. So a few days into my trip to El Nido and after paying for my diving and island hopping tours with the money I had withdrawn in Puerto Princesa I suddenly realised I was running very low on cash in a town where a meal will normally cost you about $10 or more, and on a normal day including breakfast, lunch, dinner, and coffees during the day and beers in the evening I would normally have spent $25-30. I realised I basically had to survive three days on $25 which wouldn't have been a problem anywhere but here. It meant not having dinner but rather buying fruit or bread and eating it in my hotel room. It meant drinking my water I had bought at the shop whilst others were drinking beers and cocktails at the bar.
I know, poor me, huh? Anyone reading this who has actually done the backpacking on a budget thing is probably laughing out loud. What I am basically saying is I had to live the real backpackers life for a change rather than overindulging on barbecued seafood and drinking cocktails all day long.
The not diving and not island hoppingI had booked to go diving and island hopping, two activities El Nido is renown for. Apparently the coral reefs and marine life are meant to be stunning, some of the best diving spots in the world are meant to be in the Philippines, so of course I had to try it! The same goes for island hopping (going from island to island exploring the white sand paradise beaches, snorkelling, sunbathing, barbecue on the beach...that kind of thing). However, the universe had different plans. The night before the day I had booked for diving a typhoon hit us. It sounds scarier than it is but it meant torrential rains and winds that would blow your hat off; and on the sea it meant dangerous waves. The coastguard forbid any and all boats from leaving the beach which consequently meant my diving was cancelled. No harm done I thought, time to chill, read my book (Superfreakonomics, flippin' funny by the way), write my blog, socialise with new people and reschedule diving for the next day and move island hopping to the day after!
 |
| The Four Seasons Hotel, El Nido |
That concluded my stay in El Nido. This time. I think it's safe to say I will be returning, and it will be sooner rather than later....
 |
| Las Cabanas Beach |
Saturday, 12 January 2013
Same Same But Different
When still in Bangkok I went shopping to a real mall and bought some real "Western" clothes rather than any of the "same same but different" tourist crap they sell in all the markets in every country and city, or the locals' clothes which, incidentally, wouldn't fit me no matter how hard I tried to suck it in. Had to pay big bucks for the imported high street brands, but I had no beach wear and desperately needed some - I didn't think combat trousers would be all that comfortable on the beach!
When I got to the Philippines I realised I was kind of more excited about my new beach clothes than being in a new exotic country. I suppose after a while it all becomes "same same but different" - and I don't by any means mean that I am not loving every second of my journey. What I mean is that there have been and will be so many new and unique experiences to take in that they become the norm rather than the exception. Each new city is equally as special as the last and therefore "the same" whilst still being different - you couldn't compare the temples of Angkor to the beach life in the Philippines. Instead, the real new thing for me is a brand new piece of clothing in my wardrobe that has otherwise remained same same for five weeks.
I have finally reached that point where I am super organised. I know exactly which side and how deep I need to reach in my backpack to get anything. This order of things developed progressively so that the things I need the most are always easily accessible. In this process I have identified which things are the most important to me and I couldn't do without.
My most valued possessions :
- Hand sanitizer. I go through about a bottle a week
- Baby wipes. I wipe everything; fruit, forks, hands, toilet seats....also perfect to freshen up on long days of hiking
- My pink Ikea inflatable neck pillow - can't remember the last bus / train / plane ride I didn't use it
- Swiss Army knife. In all honesty I should call it the bottle opener. But also good for opening plastic bags and containers, cutting bread, spreading butter / cheese on bread
- Peg less washing line. Set it up anywhere to dry towel, bikinis etc
- Microfibre towel. Works as a towel, moonlights as a blanket and shield from the wind.
- Super water and sweat resistant aerosol sport sunscreen. A lot may go to waste but I prefer it over creams and spays; doesn't stick or make you greasy, plus don't have to get your hands dirty. Nothing worse than having to apply sunscreen with your hands when you're on the beach and there's sand and dust everywhere.
- My iPad. Typing on it right now, use it every single day. Perfect for entertainment (movies, TV series, reading books) on long bus rides as well as for booking travel and accommodation. And Facebook.
- My over-the-top organised travel document folder. I can find any piece of paper in seconds.
Things I am not using but still lugging around:
- Yoga matt. Ah, the dilemma of the yoga matt..... Still haven't used it but I'm hoping one day I will need it as I'd like to take a yoga course, or perhaps go on a meditation retreat. A bit of a pain to lug around when you're not using it though.
Like almost every night, I'm enjoying my evening coffee on the terrace feeling the light breeze on my face looking forward to the next day.
Same same. But different.
When I got to the Philippines I realised I was kind of more excited about my new beach clothes than being in a new exotic country. I suppose after a while it all becomes "same same but different" - and I don't by any means mean that I am not loving every second of my journey. What I mean is that there have been and will be so many new and unique experiences to take in that they become the norm rather than the exception. Each new city is equally as special as the last and therefore "the same" whilst still being different - you couldn't compare the temples of Angkor to the beach life in the Philippines. Instead, the real new thing for me is a brand new piece of clothing in my wardrobe that has otherwise remained same same for five weeks.
I have finally reached that point where I am super organised. I know exactly which side and how deep I need to reach in my backpack to get anything. This order of things developed progressively so that the things I need the most are always easily accessible. In this process I have identified which things are the most important to me and I couldn't do without.
My most valued possessions :
- Hand sanitizer. I go through about a bottle a week
- Baby wipes. I wipe everything; fruit, forks, hands, toilet seats....also perfect to freshen up on long days of hiking
- My pink Ikea inflatable neck pillow - can't remember the last bus / train / plane ride I didn't use it
- Swiss Army knife. In all honesty I should call it the bottle opener. But also good for opening plastic bags and containers, cutting bread, spreading butter / cheese on bread
- Peg less washing line. Set it up anywhere to dry towel, bikinis etc
- Microfibre towel. Works as a towel, moonlights as a blanket and shield from the wind.
- Super water and sweat resistant aerosol sport sunscreen. A lot may go to waste but I prefer it over creams and spays; doesn't stick or make you greasy, plus don't have to get your hands dirty. Nothing worse than having to apply sunscreen with your hands when you're on the beach and there's sand and dust everywhere.
- My iPad. Typing on it right now, use it every single day. Perfect for entertainment (movies, TV series, reading books) on long bus rides as well as for booking travel and accommodation. And Facebook.
- My over-the-top organised travel document folder. I can find any piece of paper in seconds.
Things I am not using but still lugging around:
- Yoga matt. Ah, the dilemma of the yoga matt..... Still haven't used it but I'm hoping one day I will need it as I'd like to take a yoga course, or perhaps go on a meditation retreat. A bit of a pain to lug around when you're not using it though.
Like almost every night, I'm enjoying my evening coffee on the terrace feeling the light breeze on my face looking forward to the next day.
Same same. But different.
Thursday, 10 January 2013
The Burger I Ate in Angeles, Philippines
I shall never forget the burger I ate in Angeles, Philippines. And the reason I will never forget the burger I ate in Angeles, Philippines, is because as a consequence of my own stupidity of eating this burger in Angeles, Philippines, I stayed up all night suffering with severe "Traveller's tummy" only to have had to board a plane to fly to Palawan the next morning, and having to go to ER straight from the airport. Who in their right mind eats a quarter pounder when they've been having trouble with their stomach for a solid two weeks? Oh that's right, me. Could have eaten an apple, or some crackers, but no; since my stomach was feeling ever so slightly better I went for the burger. Half way through I realised it had been a mistake but there was no turning back.
Angeles wasn't a place I much cared for. I was only there "in transit" as I flew there from BKK and a day and a half later onwards to Puerto Princesa in Palawan. If you are looking for a cheap flight to the Philippines, you will most likely fly to Angeles rather than Manila. There's not really much to say about Angeles but then again I am not sure I can say that I gave the place half a chance to impress me either. To me it seemed like a pretty rough town.
By the time I got to Angeles I had had a bad tummy for the best part of two weeks, progressively getting worse but with some good days too. I decided to take this time in Angeles and use it for resting before flying further to Palawan. A good plan in theory, but unfortunately I have a very short memory and rationale when I'm hungry. I hadn't had stomach problems for a whole six hours so I declared myself healthy and decided to have a massive burger at the hotel for dinner, idiot.
After a sleepless night I had no choice but to drag my dehydrated self, backpacks and all, to the airport. Luckily during the night I had managed to expel the whole meal including the last of the french fries so my stomach was empty and the flight went without any embarrassing incidents.
I bet you I was a funny sight, sitting in the tricycle with my bags looking like I had no clue, being chauffeured to ER! Not a totally unpleasant experience, the hospital. I was seen within 10 minutes of arriving and had antibiotics in my hand within the next 10. I felt better within hours, ready for action! I do hope I learned my lesson from this experience although knowing myself and my fish memory I doubt it. I was already considering having some delicious looking street food from a food cart down the street. Speaking of which, it is dinner time....
And that is the story of the burger I ate in Angeles, Philippines.
Angeles wasn't a place I much cared for. I was only there "in transit" as I flew there from BKK and a day and a half later onwards to Puerto Princesa in Palawan. If you are looking for a cheap flight to the Philippines, you will most likely fly to Angeles rather than Manila. There's not really much to say about Angeles but then again I am not sure I can say that I gave the place half a chance to impress me either. To me it seemed like a pretty rough town.
By the time I got to Angeles I had had a bad tummy for the best part of two weeks, progressively getting worse but with some good days too. I decided to take this time in Angeles and use it for resting before flying further to Palawan. A good plan in theory, but unfortunately I have a very short memory and rationale when I'm hungry. I hadn't had stomach problems for a whole six hours so I declared myself healthy and decided to have a massive burger at the hotel for dinner, idiot.
After a sleepless night I had no choice but to drag my dehydrated self, backpacks and all, to the airport. Luckily during the night I had managed to expel the whole meal including the last of the french fries so my stomach was empty and the flight went without any embarrassing incidents.
I bet you I was a funny sight, sitting in the tricycle with my bags looking like I had no clue, being chauffeured to ER! Not a totally unpleasant experience, the hospital. I was seen within 10 minutes of arriving and had antibiotics in my hand within the next 10. I felt better within hours, ready for action! I do hope I learned my lesson from this experience although knowing myself and my fish memory I doubt it. I was already considering having some delicious looking street food from a food cart down the street. Speaking of which, it is dinner time....
And that is the story of the burger I ate in Angeles, Philippines.
Tuesday, 8 January 2013
The travelling itself in Southeast Asia
Like I've said before, arranging travel in Southeast Asia is extremely easy, far easier than anywhere in Europe. Every hotel, hostel, and guesthouse will have a travel desk, and in addition to that there are travel agents on every street, and normally more than one. There are a huge number of trips and tours for very affordable prices and transport wise they can get you anywhere! And what's even better is that you really don't have to plan far ahead, I normally get my bus or train tickets the day before if not on the same day of travel and only once so far have they told me the train was full (and even then I managed to get on the train, just not an official seat as such). Border crossings in my experience have also gone fantastically well, as most times the tour organiser sorts out visas for you so you don't even need to worry. There's usually a lot of "what the hell is going on?" in the air, but the truth is you don't even need to know - just relax, be patient, and eventually you'll get to wherever you're going.
But that doesn't mean it's by any means stress free, and there will always be exceptions to the rules, like my journey from Siem Reap to Bangkok taught me. I decided to take the bus which I was told took 8 hours including border crossing and cost $10 - perfect! The bus to the border was relatively painless, as buses tend to be very comfortable and have aircon, but unlike the other times I have crossed borders this was anything but smooth and quick. First of all let me rewind a little. About a mile before the border the bus driver pulled over to the side of the road and told everyone to get off the bus. "Ticket change, ticket change" he shouted. Ticket change? Why am I meant to change my ticket? To what? Did he mean bus change? Are we at the border? If not, where the hell are we? So I decided to ask him - except he was nowhere to be seen. For about 15 minutes we all stood there next to the road, no one knowing what was happening and what this ticket change was all about. When he came back without a word he started collecting everyone's tickets and in exchange gave us a sticker, the color depending on our final destination (red for Bangkok, yellow for Pattaya, etc). Ok, so there was my ticket gone. Should be interesting if anyone was to ask for it later as proof of purchase.
We got back on the bus and five minutes later arrived at the border. I knew it was bad news when I saw that the line of people queuing up to immigration was way longer than the waiting area. It gets better. It smelled like someone had left dead fish out in the sun right next to the queue - about a week ago. Oh yes. It didn't help matters that I was kind of experiencing the famous traveller's stomach problems. Many swearwords went through my head during that hour and a half's wait in the sun in the immigration line.
Finally through the Cambodian border I was so happy I almost kissed the old Asian lady in front of me! The joy was short lived as I soon realised I still had the Thai border to cross.... So skipping the part where I swore a lot out loud, another hour and a half later we were in Thailand! At this point my back and shoulders were killing me from carrying my backpacks, and my stomach felt like someone was electrocuting me from the inside but hey, we were about to get on an air conditioned luxbus, right?
Wrong.
From the border we had to walk up the road for a while where a, I'm going to use the word minibus (it was more like a cage on wheels), was waiting on the side of the road. In the hassle of getting our bags into and onto the car and getting ourselves in the car I was left last and due to there not being enough space I was told to wait for the next one whilst my backpack was driven off to the unknown. All I hoped for was that this man got the colour of the stickers right and that I was indeed going to the same place my bag was.
I managed to get on the next cage on wheels and was successfully reunited with my bag at a, I'm going to use the word restaurant (plastic chairs next to the road, dead fish smell, Thai ladies selling questionable looking food). And there we waited. And waited. And then we waited some more. At this point it had been five hours since we had gotten off the previous bus at the Cambodian border, and eight hours in total since we left Siem Reap. Then a man came and spoke to some travellers wearing red stickers, pointed at a bus across the road and sent them off. When I tried to follow them as I too had a red sticker he told me to stay put. I could see the other red-stickered tourists across the street next to the bus, whilst I remained at the 'restaurant.' No idea where I was supposed to be, nor who I could ask? Everyone else in the restaurant looked just as puzzled and some even resorted to asking the random food ladies on the street if they knew where we were meant to be. Green, red, yellow stickered tourists all over the place, no one knowing where to go. I decided to go over to the other side of the road to see what was happening but not surprisingly everyone was just as clueless there. They hadn't been let on the bus, and no one was telling them anything either. Some 15 minutes of cluelessness later we were told to get on the bus - me not knowing still if this was where I should be but anything was better than staying at the rotten fish restaurant. Although the bus did smell very strongly of toilet which we had to endure for the remaining several hours of the journey so now I'm not sure which was better.....
Finally got to my hostel dorm at around 8 pm, in other words 12 hours later. All I had to eat all day was a small bag of salted cashew nuts, I was tired, my shoulders and my back hurt like hell and my stomach was not pleased.
Making travel arrangements and travelling in Southeast Asia really is as easy as everyone says it is. But it's the bad experiences that make the great stories.
 |
| At the border, on the Cambodian side |
We got back on the bus and five minutes later arrived at the border. I knew it was bad news when I saw that the line of people queuing up to immigration was way longer than the waiting area. It gets better. It smelled like someone had left dead fish out in the sun right next to the queue - about a week ago. Oh yes. It didn't help matters that I was kind of experiencing the famous traveller's stomach problems. Many swearwords went through my head during that hour and a half's wait in the sun in the immigration line.
Finally through the Cambodian border I was so happy I almost kissed the old Asian lady in front of me! The joy was short lived as I soon realised I still had the Thai border to cross.... So skipping the part where I swore a lot out loud, another hour and a half later we were in Thailand! At this point my back and shoulders were killing me from carrying my backpacks, and my stomach felt like someone was electrocuting me from the inside but hey, we were about to get on an air conditioned luxbus, right?
Wrong.
From the border we had to walk up the road for a while where a, I'm going to use the word minibus (it was more like a cage on wheels), was waiting on the side of the road. In the hassle of getting our bags into and onto the car and getting ourselves in the car I was left last and due to there not being enough space I was told to wait for the next one whilst my backpack was driven off to the unknown. All I hoped for was that this man got the colour of the stickers right and that I was indeed going to the same place my bag was.
I managed to get on the next cage on wheels and was successfully reunited with my bag at a, I'm going to use the word restaurant (plastic chairs next to the road, dead fish smell, Thai ladies selling questionable looking food). And there we waited. And waited. And then we waited some more. At this point it had been five hours since we had gotten off the previous bus at the Cambodian border, and eight hours in total since we left Siem Reap. Then a man came and spoke to some travellers wearing red stickers, pointed at a bus across the road and sent them off. When I tried to follow them as I too had a red sticker he told me to stay put. I could see the other red-stickered tourists across the street next to the bus, whilst I remained at the 'restaurant.' No idea where I was supposed to be, nor who I could ask? Everyone else in the restaurant looked just as puzzled and some even resorted to asking the random food ladies on the street if they knew where we were meant to be. Green, red, yellow stickered tourists all over the place, no one knowing where to go. I decided to go over to the other side of the road to see what was happening but not surprisingly everyone was just as clueless there. They hadn't been let on the bus, and no one was telling them anything either. Some 15 minutes of cluelessness later we were told to get on the bus - me not knowing still if this was where I should be but anything was better than staying at the rotten fish restaurant. Although the bus did smell very strongly of toilet which we had to endure for the remaining several hours of the journey so now I'm not sure which was better.....
Finally got to my hostel dorm at around 8 pm, in other words 12 hours later. All I had to eat all day was a small bag of salted cashew nuts, I was tired, my shoulders and my back hurt like hell and my stomach was not pleased.
Making travel arrangements and travelling in Southeast Asia really is as easy as everyone says it is. But it's the bad experiences that make the great stories.
 |
| At the border on the Thailand side waiting to board the bus. |
Monday, 7 January 2013
Angkor, the Holy City
 |
| Angkor Wat |
But how could I not write about it?
 |
| Ta Phrom |
The temples are very widespread over an area of 400 square kilometres but the main ones are scattered around the core, including Angkor Wat which is the most famous one. So to get around, I had my own personal tuk tuk driver for $12/ day who took me wherever I wanted to go - and more. On the second day, the day I had gotten up at 4.30 am to see the sunrise, I was insanely exhausted come the afternoon with sweat running down my face and back (it was about 30 degrees and the sun was merciless), covered in dust and dirt and all I wanted to do was to go home. I had just finished my expedition at Ta Prohm (the temple renown for all the huge trees growing 'out' of' it) and was dreaming of the cold water in the swimming pool when I climbed into the tuk tuk with my last remaining energy reserves and asked the driver to take me back to the hotel. But he just turned around, smiled and said "nooo two more temples!" and before I could even make a sound off he was driving me in the opposite direction to my hotel to the next temple! I almost cried. My legs were so tired they were shaking when I got off the tuk tuk at the next temple. I said to him that perhaps I could see these other temples the next day at which he burst out laughing like it was the funniest thing he had heard in his life and gestured me to 'get on with it.' And on with it I got. Feeling sorry for myself. 
Talking about filming, scenes from Tomb Raider were actually shot at Angkor.
Before visiting Angkor I had read and heard plenty about it, but none of it lived up to the grandiosity when you see it first hand. That is why I will not even attempt to describe it but will say it's worth a visit. Or two.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)