El Nido - The Place I Didn't Go Riding, Diving, or Island Hopping

Some things are like Goldilocks's porridge - just right. For me, it was El Nido. Although NOTHING went to plan, the town of El Nido was hands up one of the most amazing places ever. Not only did I almost run out of money in El Nido but none of the activities I had planned - horse riding, diving, and island hopping - happened.

El Nido, Palawan

Electricity
El Nido is a remote town and electricity is scarce. In fact, it is cut off between 6am and 2pm; and comes and goes throughout the rest of the time. At night when there was a power cut I loved walking around looking at the candlelit town. Some places like bars and restaurants (although not all of them) had generators but all the shops and most hostels and houses relied on candles when the lights were out. Even people on the street walked around holding candles rather than flash lights. How could you not fall in love with El Nido?

Mine! Las Cabanas Beach, Palawan

The Philippines is a country I will most certainly be returning to only with a bit more money. It was more expensive than any of the other places I've been to so far; although partly it is because the cheaper backpackers' accommodations get booked up weeks if not months in advance in the popular destinations. I thought I was early when I went to book my hostels a week in advance but as it turns out I was way late and failed to find a backpackers dorm on the net (also some of the dorms aren't listed on the net) in El Nido so had to book a double room at a "hotel" that had very bad reviews, Blessed Inn, for $18 a night. That is a high price when you have no one to share it with. Other people I met told me they took a risk and went without having booked anything knowing many places can't be booked online, but they walked around for hours before finding a place so I am definitely glad I had my room - even though it was probably smaller, dirtier, and noisier than any of the backpackers' I've stayed at for half the price!

Food is also more expensive. I spent on average $25 a day which broke the bank a bit, but damn it was good! I had fresh seafood in every shape and form almost every day. What also broke the bank was an ATM that told me my transaction couldn't be processed but still showed -£127.50 on my bank statement. I really hope my dispute with Barclays is successful and I get my money back!

Horse riding - or the not horse riding
I had seen a poster advertising horse riding on the beach at the Four Seasons hotel so I thought to myself "Hell. Yes." I asked a travel agent to call the hotel and organise it for me, explaining I was an experienced rider and all that. The next day I could barely keep my breakfast down I was so excited. I could already imagine galloping on the beach through the waves! The hotel was a little bit outside the town so I took a tricycle to get there. I was all prepared, had even thought through the outfit choice so it would be most comfortable to ride; combat trousers rather than shorts, trainers instead of flip flops... I was sure it was going to be just spectacular - if the Four Seasns are offering it, it had got to be good!

Well, not quite.

I never did get to gallop in the breaking waves. I never did get to feel the wind in my hair. I didn't even get to sit on the horse. Here's why. The poor horse looked like it hadn't had a straw of hey to eat in weeks. His fur was dull, his ribs were sticking out, and he was just staring into space with the most apathetic look on his face as to say "just shoot me now." The poor thing looked like it would fall over if I poked at him, LET ALONE get on him!!! I felt so sorry for him I couldn't even bring myself to take a picture...

I didn't really know what to do next. I was out of town, it was 10am, and I didn't have a plan.

A plan emerged as if by itself. I suddenly realised I was sitting at the Four Seasons, next to a swimming pool and a cocktail menu!

I should probably explain that this "Four Seasons" hotel was a knock off version of THE Four Seasons chain. Still a nice hotel and swimming pool, bonus! But probably explains certain things, like the horses looking like knock offs of real ones.

OK, so I didn't get to go riding but I got to work on my tan by the pool and go for long walks on the beach. I ain't complainin' :)

Cash flow problem
There is a rumour that there is an ATM at the gas station in El Nido but I never went to see if it was true or not - I also heard it charges 6% commission and is not the most reliable machine. Seeing I still had my last ATM problem to deal with I wasn't about to add to that list. So a few days into my trip to El Nido and after paying for my diving and island hopping tours with the money I had withdrawn in Puerto Princesa I suddenly realised I was running very low on cash in a town where a meal will normally cost you about $10 or more, and on a normal day including breakfast, lunch, dinner, and coffees during the day and beers in the evening I would normally have spent $25-30. I realised I basically had to survive three days on $25 which wouldn't have been a problem anywhere but here. It meant not having dinner but rather buying fruit or bread and eating it in my hotel room. It meant drinking my water I had bought at the shop whilst others were drinking beers and cocktails at the bar.

I know, poor me, huh? Anyone reading this who has actually done the backpacking on a budget thing is probably laughing out loud. What I am basically saying is I had to live the real backpackers life for a change rather than overindulging on barbecued seafood and drinking cocktails all day long.

The not diving and not island hopping
I had booked to go diving and island hopping, two activities El Nido is renown for. Apparently the coral reefs and marine life are meant to be stunning, some of the best diving spots in the world are meant to be in the Philippines, so of course I had to try it! The same goes for island hopping (going from island to island exploring the white sand paradise beaches, snorkelling, sunbathing, barbecue on the beach...that kind of thing). However, the universe had different plans. The night before the day I had booked for diving a typhoon hit us. It sounds scarier than it is but it meant torrential rains and winds that would blow your hat off; and on the sea it meant dangerous waves. The coastguard forbid any and all boats from leaving the beach which consequently meant my diving was cancelled. No harm done I thought, time to chill, read my book (Superfreakonomics, flippin' funny by the way), write my blog, socialise with new people and reschedule diving for the next day and move island hopping to the day after!

The Four Seasons Hotel, El Nido

Unfortunately the universe had other plans for me again. The stomach problem I was still on medication for suddenly resurfaced despite the antibiotics and I spent the next sleepless night in agony - luckily though in the privacy of my own hotel room rather than in a shared dorm. I realised this was a problem I needed to deal with properly and knew by then it wouldn't go away on its own so first thing in the morning I went and cancelled my diving and island hopping and got on a bus back to Puerto Princesa.

That concluded my stay in El Nido. This time. I think it's safe to say I will be returning, and it will be sooner rather than later....

Las Cabanas Beach